Feedback & FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions:
Please let me know your thoughts or if you have any questions! I really would enjoy to hear from you! Thanks so much!
Q: How big will the Dutch rabbits get? I want a rabbit that my child can handle easily, even once the bunny is an adult.
A: Dutch rabbits only get to be about 3 1/2 to 4 lbs. They can be up to 5 lbs, but mine normally average out at 3-4 lbs. They are always easy for small children (even a 2 year old with adult supervision) to handle, even as adults.
Q: How big will the English Angora rabbits get?
A: English Angora bucks can weigh anywhere from 5-7 lbs. An English Angora Doe can weigh anywhere from 5-7.5lbs. That is the ARBA accepted show weights. They can appear much larger because of their large wool coats, but there is actually a relatively small rabbit underneath that fluff.
Q: How old does a rabbit have to be before I can breed it?
A: This really depends on the individual rabbit. Normally 10-12 months is the best time to start, but if you're bunny is ready, 8 months would be fine. Be aware that both Males and Females can become able to breed (sexually mature) at about 12 weeks, but I would strongly advise against breeding them at so young an age. You could lose your female. I even will separate my litters at about 10 weeks, so as to insure that I don't have any "accidents", so as to prevent having to deal with such a grave situation. Also, if you're planning to show a female rabbit, I would recommend waiting until the rabbit has been shown before breeding, and their hips can widen/narrow after having kits, and Angoras can lose coat condition. Breeding has no physical affect on the Males as far as showing that I know of.
Q: What kind of feed should I buy for my bunny? Are there different kinds? Are some better than others? Where should I buy it?
A: I'm picky about my feed for my bunnies, partly because I have pregnant does and English Angoras, but I think I would still be such a "snoot" about my feed even if I had a pet rabbit. I buy Country Acres 18% protein, as it is one of the highest quality feeds locally. Really, if I were you, I would just go look at my local pet store. Try and buy feed that has the highest protein, a feed that does NOT contain any artificial dyes, and often if the pellets are small and green, chances are they could be one of the nicer ones. If you're in the Springfield MO area, Gordon's feed and Pet carries Country Acres, and SOMO in Springfield carries a 19% protein that is the closest thing to the County Acres. Be careful, if your rabbit get diarrhea, try gently switching the feed to a lower protein. All of mine are raised on a 18%, so they shouldn't have any troubles with 18% feeds. Keep in mind that the Gordon's and SOMO sell rabbit pellet in #50 bags, I've found that they don't go stale easily, if you have one bunny #50 lbs ought to last you 2 months at least, if you store it in rubbermaid containers. I also recommend Manna Pro 16% or 18%, or Penpals 18%.
Q: What kind of a cage should I keep my bunny in? Indoor? Outdoor? Why?
A: I generally would recommend a 30x36 inch cage, as that is what is considered ideal, but really you can play with it a little. Some of my cages are larger, some smaller. I find that an 18x24 works fine for Dutch rabbits, so really just find what your bunny likes, and what you feel up to allowing how much space for. (also consider cleaning techniques) Whichever size you choose, keep in mind that having a wire floor grate to keep them out of their feces is needed for an English Angora. This keeps them out of their feces, and can help prevent matting in their fine wool.
For an indoor cage for Dutch rabbits, here is what I highly recommend. You can find it here. For an outdoor cage, my outdoor cages generally are about 2'-3'x3'. I would highly recommend getting either the outdoor or indoor cage with a grate, or small wire, so as to keep your bunny out of it's feces.
Q: How much grooming does an English Angora require?
A: This also depends on each individual rabbit. Some really high quality rabbits require less grooming than others. It all depends on your rabbit's coat. For a non molting Angora that you aren't showing, 2-3 times per week is fine. For a non molting Angora that you are showing, 3-4+ times a week is a good idea. For a molting Angora you aren't showing, Groom 2-3 times per week, and when in molt, 4-5 times per week. If you are having to groom 4-5 times per week, it is probably time to shear/pluck them down. For a molting Angora you ARE showing, you may need to groom anywhere from 3-5 times per week just to keep their coat in perfect condition. Keep in mind, if you're showing, you get 57 points for wool. You are wanting nice, long, dense fiber, and to get that kind of fiber, you will need to keep a strict grooming schedule. Most of my English Angora's are non molting, which does make for easier grooming maintenance, as well as less grooming. It is still important to keep those coats in good condition, so be sure to keep a good grooming routine.
Q: Can I litter box train my rabbit(s)?
A: Yes. It is fairly easy to litter box train rabbits, and if they are trained correctly, they should rarely ever, if ever, have accidents. Rabbits are actually very intelligent animals, and if time, care and love is put into them, they make wonderful pets.
Feel free to Contact me if you have anymore questions! I'd be happy to get back with you as soon as possible.
A: Dutch rabbits only get to be about 3 1/2 to 4 lbs. They can be up to 5 lbs, but mine normally average out at 3-4 lbs. They are always easy for small children (even a 2 year old with adult supervision) to handle, even as adults.
Q: How big will the English Angora rabbits get?
A: English Angora bucks can weigh anywhere from 5-7 lbs. An English Angora Doe can weigh anywhere from 5-7.5lbs. That is the ARBA accepted show weights. They can appear much larger because of their large wool coats, but there is actually a relatively small rabbit underneath that fluff.
Q: How old does a rabbit have to be before I can breed it?
A: This really depends on the individual rabbit. Normally 10-12 months is the best time to start, but if you're bunny is ready, 8 months would be fine. Be aware that both Males and Females can become able to breed (sexually mature) at about 12 weeks, but I would strongly advise against breeding them at so young an age. You could lose your female. I even will separate my litters at about 10 weeks, so as to insure that I don't have any "accidents", so as to prevent having to deal with such a grave situation. Also, if you're planning to show a female rabbit, I would recommend waiting until the rabbit has been shown before breeding, and their hips can widen/narrow after having kits, and Angoras can lose coat condition. Breeding has no physical affect on the Males as far as showing that I know of.
Q: What kind of feed should I buy for my bunny? Are there different kinds? Are some better than others? Where should I buy it?
A: I'm picky about my feed for my bunnies, partly because I have pregnant does and English Angoras, but I think I would still be such a "snoot" about my feed even if I had a pet rabbit. I buy Country Acres 18% protein, as it is one of the highest quality feeds locally. Really, if I were you, I would just go look at my local pet store. Try and buy feed that has the highest protein, a feed that does NOT contain any artificial dyes, and often if the pellets are small and green, chances are they could be one of the nicer ones. If you're in the Springfield MO area, Gordon's feed and Pet carries Country Acres, and SOMO in Springfield carries a 19% protein that is the closest thing to the County Acres. Be careful, if your rabbit get diarrhea, try gently switching the feed to a lower protein. All of mine are raised on a 18%, so they shouldn't have any troubles with 18% feeds. Keep in mind that the Gordon's and SOMO sell rabbit pellet in #50 bags, I've found that they don't go stale easily, if you have one bunny #50 lbs ought to last you 2 months at least, if you store it in rubbermaid containers. I also recommend Manna Pro 16% or 18%, or Penpals 18%.
Q: What kind of a cage should I keep my bunny in? Indoor? Outdoor? Why?
A: I generally would recommend a 30x36 inch cage, as that is what is considered ideal, but really you can play with it a little. Some of my cages are larger, some smaller. I find that an 18x24 works fine for Dutch rabbits, so really just find what your bunny likes, and what you feel up to allowing how much space for. (also consider cleaning techniques) Whichever size you choose, keep in mind that having a wire floor grate to keep them out of their feces is needed for an English Angora. This keeps them out of their feces, and can help prevent matting in their fine wool.
For an indoor cage for Dutch rabbits, here is what I highly recommend. You can find it here. For an outdoor cage, my outdoor cages generally are about 2'-3'x3'. I would highly recommend getting either the outdoor or indoor cage with a grate, or small wire, so as to keep your bunny out of it's feces.
Q: How much grooming does an English Angora require?
A: This also depends on each individual rabbit. Some really high quality rabbits require less grooming than others. It all depends on your rabbit's coat. For a non molting Angora that you aren't showing, 2-3 times per week is fine. For a non molting Angora that you are showing, 3-4+ times a week is a good idea. For a molting Angora you aren't showing, Groom 2-3 times per week, and when in molt, 4-5 times per week. If you are having to groom 4-5 times per week, it is probably time to shear/pluck them down. For a molting Angora you ARE showing, you may need to groom anywhere from 3-5 times per week just to keep their coat in perfect condition. Keep in mind, if you're showing, you get 57 points for wool. You are wanting nice, long, dense fiber, and to get that kind of fiber, you will need to keep a strict grooming schedule. Most of my English Angora's are non molting, which does make for easier grooming maintenance, as well as less grooming. It is still important to keep those coats in good condition, so be sure to keep a good grooming routine.
Q: Can I litter box train my rabbit(s)?
A: Yes. It is fairly easy to litter box train rabbits, and if they are trained correctly, they should rarely ever, if ever, have accidents. Rabbits are actually very intelligent animals, and if time, care and love is put into them, they make wonderful pets.
Feel free to Contact me if you have anymore questions! I'd be happy to get back with you as soon as possible.
Comments from others:
I found you! :) Just wanted to let you know that your website looks really great...I like the design, and the pictures are really good too! Good job! Hope to see you soon!
Kaitlyn~
Kaitlyn~
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